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There Will Be Parts 1, 2, 3, And 4 Of This Tek. The Tek Is In Part 1. The Ingredients And Supplies Will Be In Part 2. Part 4 Of The Faq Section, Which I Will Continue To Update And Keep Current With All The Questions I Get, Will Be Part 3 Of The Re-x Tek. To Summarise, This Tek Will Provide You With A 2% Yield Of Fluffy White Crystals That Are Exceptionally Smooth When Vaped And Will Definitely Provide You With The Breakthrough You’re Looking For (Depending On Your Bark Quality). With That Said, Let’s Get Started!
Put On A Pair Of Gloves And Some Safety Glasses To Start. 100 Grammes Of Lye Should Be Placed In Your Cup Using Your Scale.
Next, Pour 750ml Of Room Temperature Water Into Your Pyrex Measuring Cup.
Make Sure You Are Wearing Your Safety Goggles, Gloves, And Mask Before Adding The Lye To The Water. You Don’t Want To Inhale Any Fumes Or Get Lye In Your Eyes Or On Your Skin.
Continue Mixing The Water While You Add A Little Bit Of Lye At A Time Using Your Stainless-steel Spoon. In Order To Prevent The Water And Glass From Heating Up Too Quickly, You Should Only Add About A Tablespoon At A Time. When Lye Is Added To Water, A Chemical Reaction Occurs That Generates A Lot Of Heat. Therefore, Pyrex Or Laboratory-grade Borosilicate Glass Is Required For Your Glass.
Make Sure To Constantly Mix To Prevent Lye Clumps From Adhering To The Bottom Of Your Glass, Which Might Potentially Lead To Weak Points. As You Mix, Continue Adding A Little Amount Of Lye At A Time Until All 100 Grammes Have Completely Dissolved In Your Water. When All Of The Lye Has Been Dissolved, I Like To Set My Glass Outside On My Porch To Finish The Reaction And Avoid A Buildup Of Fumes Within The House.
For This Step, A Wooden Spoon Should Not Be Used. Because Of How Quickly The Lye Reaction Occurs, Any Dyes Or Treatments That May Have Been Applied On Your Spoon Without Your Knowledge Might Leak Into Your Water. *safety Tip: Never Add Water To The Lye, Even Though You Should Have A Spoon With No Dyes Or Treatments, It Is Better To Use Stainless Steel For This Step. There Will Be A Violent Reaction To It. Add Lye To The Water Without Fail, Ever, Ever, Ever.
The Lye Water Must Then Be Allowed To Cool To Room Temperature Or (70 Degrees Fahrenheit). This Will Guarantee That The Spice Is Not Very Hot And Gives You Yellow Gooey Spice. In This Technique, We Take Every Step At Room Temperature In Order To Get The Fluffy White Crystals You Want. It Is Ideal To Have Your Bark Chips Ready While Your Lye Water Is Cooling.
Weigh Out 100 Grams Of Your Bark Chips Or Shredded Bark Using Your Scale And Bowl. Add The 100 Grammes Of Pre-powdered Bark To The Mason Jar If You Purchased It, And Wait For The Lye Water To Cool While Doing So. You Will Need To Grind Up Any Purchased Bark Chips Or Shredded Bark. Before Grinding Up My Bark, I Like To Freeze It For 24 Hours. This Will Facilitate Breaking Down The Bark For Extraction And Make It Easier To Grind Up The Bark. Though Not Quite Necessary.
Place A Small Handful Of Your Bark Chips In Your Preferred Grinder And Pulse It A Little At A Time Until The Bark Is Reduced To A Coarse Powder. Remember That Even After Grinding, Plant Fibres Will Still Be Visible. This Is Entirely Acceptable. You Really Don’t Want Your Bark Baby Powder To Be Too Fine Since If It Is, Emulsions Will Be Simple To Produce.
You Want A Fine Corse Powder Without Any Significant Bark Chunks. I Like To Get Bark In The Form Of Chips Or Shredded Bark So That I May Grind It To The Desired Consistency. I Believe That My Yields Are Better As Well, Although I Lack Scientific Data To Support That Assertion. Just Anything I’ve Noticed, Really. Once You Have Crushed Up All 100 Grammes Of Bark, Keep Grinding Your Bark A Little At A Time. Put All Of The Bark Powder In The Chosen Extraction Vessel Or Mason Jar While You Wait For The Lye Water To Cool. *note: Grind Your Bark In Small Batches At A Time To Avoid Damaging Your Grinder’s Motor.
Check The Temperature Of Your Lye Water With A Thermometer Until It Reaches 70 Degrees. To Get White Crystals, It’s Important To Avoid Overheating The Mixture And Pulling Any Plant Fats. Everything In This Tek Is Thus At Room Temperature. The Final Product Will Have A Deeper Yellow Tint And A Waxier Consistency If The Lye Water Is Added While It Is Still Hot Or Warm.
Cover The Measuring Cup With A Glass Plate And Put It In Your Fridge If You Are Having Trouble Getting The Lye Water To Cool To 70 Degrees. Instead Of Letting The Lye Fumes Out Into The Refrigerator, The Keeps Them Contained. Just Remember Not To Let It Get Too Cold Or To Forget About It. Note: Don’t Cover Your Lye Water With Foil Or Plastic Wrap! A Dangerous Reaction Between Aluminum And Lye Causes Harmful Fumes That Can Kill You. Never Cover Your Lye Water With Foil While Cooling It.
It’s Time To Combine Your Lye Water With Your Bark After It Reaches A Temperature Of 70 Degrees Fahrenheit. For This Step, Make Sure You Are Wearing Your Safety Goggles And Gloves. Pour The Lye Water Into The Mason Jar That Holds The Powdered Bark Gradually. Now, This Is What We Refer To As Your Base. To Prevent Getting It In Your Eyes, Take Care Not To Spill It On Yourself Or Cause Excessive Splashing. Mix The Bark And Lye Well For Two Minutes With Your Wooden Spoon, Then Let The Base Rest For Ten Minutes.
I Use A Wooden Spoon For This Step Because If You Use A Steel Spoon And Mix Too Vigorously, The Side Of Your Jar May Crack. You’ll See That Dry Bark Clumps Have Floated To The Surface After Ten Minutes. After Mixing The Base For An Additional Two Minutes, Give It Another 10 Minutes To Rest. Repeat This Mixing And Resting Procedure For A Minimum Of Three More Times, Or Until No Dry Bark Is Left Or Rises To The Top Of Your Base. This Step Is Crucial, And You Must Ensure That The Bark Is Completely Saturated.
It Will Result In Separation Problems And Instant Emulsions If You Add Naphtha To Your Base While The Dry Bark Is Still Present. Before Moving On To The Next Step, Be Patient And Make Sure The Base Is Well Saturated. You’ll See That Your Bark Has Begun To React And Has Changed Colour To Black. *note: If You’re Using A Magnetic Stirrer, Setting It To Medium-high For 30 Minutes Can Speed Up The Process And Ensure That The Bark Is Completely Saturated Without Requiring You To Let The Bark Rest.
It Is Time To Add The Naphtha Or Other Solvent After You Are Certain That Your Base Is Completely Saturated And There Are No Dry Clumps Or Pockets Of Bark Remaining (Your Solvent). Naphtha Naturally Evaporates In The Open Air, So Prepare Your Jar Lid Before Measuring Out Any Solvent. You Can See That I’m Using A Sandwich Bag And A Lightly Tightened Jar Ring In The “Initial Mix” Video Down Below.
Rubber Bands And Plastic Wrap Both Work Fantastically! I Use This Kind Of Lid Because It Prevents My Jar From Turning Into A Bomb In The Event That Any Pressure Builds Up And Escapes Out From Under The Rubber Band Or Jar Ring. I Haven’t Had A Single Jar Explode As Of Yet. Because Naphtha Shouldn’t Ever Come In Contact With Plastic, Some People Will Argue That It Is Bad Practise.
They Are Exactly Right! Plastic Should Never Be In Contact With Your Solvent. The Bag Or Plastic Wrap Won’t Ever Come Into Contact With Your Solvent Base Throughout The Whole Extraction Process If You’re Mixing Properly. Before I Had Lab Glass, I Used This Kind Of Lid For A Few Years With No Problems. If You Are Patiently And Correctly Mixing, You Won’t Either. *note: For This Step, You May Use Your Erlenmeyer Flask With A Glass Stopper. Just Stick To The Mason Jar And Plastic Lid Above If You Don’t Have One, However.
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